Ngezinto zokuthambisa zendalo, eziluhlaza, ezinempilo nezikhuselekileyo ezinezityalo ezitsala ingqalelo engakumbi nangakumbi, ukuphuhliswa kwezinto ezisebenzayo ezivela kwimithombo yezityalo kunye nophuhliso lwezithambiso ezicocekileyo zendalo ziye zaba ngomnye wemixholo esebenzayo ekuphuhlisweni kweshishini lokuthambisa. Ukuphinda kuphuhliswe izibonelelo zezityalo akukhona nje ukubuyisela imbali, kodwa kukuxhasa inkcubeko yemveli yaseTshayina, ukudibanisa iithiyori zemveli zamayeza emveli aseTshayina, kwaye usebenzise itekhnoloji yanamhlanje ye-biochemical ukuphuhlisa iintlobo ezintsha zezithambiso ezivela kwizityalo, ukuze kuphuhliswe isayensi kunye nokhuseleko. izithambiso zendalo. Iimveliso zemichiza zibonelela ngezinto eziluhlaza. Ukongeza, izicatshulwa zezityalo zisetyenziswa ngokubanzi kumayeza, izongezo zokutya, ukutya okusebenzayo, iziselo, izimonyo kunye nezinye iinkalo.
Izicatshulwa zezityalo(PE) ibhekisa kwizityalo ezineemolekyuli ezincinci zebhayoloji kunye nee-macromolecules njengomzimba ophambili owenzelwe injongo yokwahlula kunye nokucoca isathako esinye okanye ezininzi ezisebenzayo kwimathiriyeli ekrwada yezityalo ngeendlela zomzimba, iikhemikhali kunye nebhayoloji. Izithambiso eziqulunqwe kunye nezicatshulwa zezityalo njengezithako ezisebenzayo zineenzuzo ezininzi xa kuthelekiswa nezithambiso zendabuko: zinqoba iintsilelo zezithambiso zendabuko ezixhomekeke kwi-synthetics yeekhemikhali, okwenza imveliso ikhuseleke; amacandelo endalo afunxeka ngokulula eluswini, okwenza imveliso isebenze ngakumbi kwaye umphumo ubaluleke ngakumbi; umsebenzi ugqame ngakumbi, njl.
Ukukhetha isicatshulwa esifanelekileyo sesityalo kunye nokongeza inani elifanelekileyo lesityalo kwimveliso ye-cosmetic inokwandisa umphumo wayo. Imisebenzi ephambili yezicatshulwa zezityalo kwizithambiso zezi: ukuthambisa, ukuchasana nokuguga, ukususwa kwe-freckle, ukukhuselwa kwelanga, i-antiseptic, njl., kunye nezicatshulwa zezityalo ziluhlaza kwaye zikhuselekile.
Misiphumo se-oisturizing
Iimpawu zokuthambisa kwii-cosmetics zenziwa ngokukodwa ngeendlela ezimbini: enye iphunyezwa ngumphumo wokuvala amanzi wokwenza amabhondi e-hydrogen phakathi kwe-agent e-moisturizing kunye ne-molecule yamanzi; enye kukuba ioli yenza ifilimu evaliweyo kwindawo yesikhumba.
Izithambiso ezibizwa ngokuba yi-moisturizing cosmetics eziqulethe izithako ezithambisayo ukuze kugcinwe umswakama we-stratum corneum ukubuyisela ukukhanya kunye nokuqina kwesikhumba. Izithambiso zokuthambisa zihlulwe kakhulu zibe ziindidi ezimbini ngokweempawu zazo: enye kukusebenzisa izinto ezigcina amanzi ezinokuthi zidityaniswe ngamandla kunye nomswakama phezu kwesikhumba ukuthambisa i-stratum corneum, ebizwa ngokuba yi-moisturizing agents, njenge-glycerin; enye iyinto enganyibilikiyo emanzini, Umaleko wefilimu yokuthambisa yenziwa phezu kolusu, osebenza njengesitywina ukuthintela ukulahleka kwamanzi, ukuze i-stratum corneum igcine umlinganiselo othile wokufuma, obizwa ngokuba yi-emollients okanye iiconditioners, ezifana nepetrolatum, ioyile, kunye newax.
Kukho izityalo ezimbalwa kwisityalo ezinefuthe lokumanzisa kunye nokufumisa, njenge-aloe vera, i-seaweed, umnquma, i-chamomile, njl., zonke zinefuthe elihle lokufuma.
Impembelelo yokuchasana nokuguga
Ngokunyuka kobudala, ulusu luqala ukubonisa imeko yokwaluphala, ebandakanya ukuncitshiswa kwe-collagen, i-elastin, i-mucopolysaccharide kunye nezinye iziqulatho eluswini ukuya kumaqondo ahlukeneyo, imithambo yegazi ibonelela nge-atrophy yesondlo solusu, ukunwebeka kwemithambo yegazi. udonga luyancipha, kwaye ulusu lwe-epidermis luyancipha ngokuthe ngcembe. I-Bulging, ukunciphisa amafutha angaphantsi, kunye nokubonakala kwemibimbi, i-chloasma kunye namabala eminyaka ubudala.
Okwangoku, izifundo zangaphambili malunga nezizathu zokuguga kwabantu ziye zashwankathela le miba ilandelayo:
Enye kukukhula kunye nokuguga kweeradicals zamahhala. Iiradicals zasimahla ziiathom okanye iimolekyuli ezineelektroni ezingasebenziyo eziveliswa yi-homolysis yeebhondi ezidibeneyo. Banomsebenzi ophezulu wemichiza kwaye baye bafumana i-peroxidation kunye ne-lipids engaxutywanga. I-Lipid peroxide (LPO), kunye nemveliso yayo yokugqibela, i-malondialdehyde (MDA), inokusabela kwizinto ezininzi kwiiseli eziphilayo, okukhokelela ekunciphiseni ukunyanzeliswa kwe-biofilm, umonakalo kwiimolekyuli ze-DNA, kunye nokufa kweeseli okanye ukuguqulwa kwenguqu.
Okwesibini, imitha ye-UVB kunye ne-UVA ekukhanyeni kwelanga inokubangela ukufotowa kwesikhumba. Imitha ye-ultraviolet ngokuyinhloko ibangela ukuguga kwesikhumba ngokusebenzisa iindlela ezilandelayo: 1) umonakalo kwi-DNA; 2) ukudibanisa i-collagen; I-3) ukunciphisa impendulo yokuzivikela komzimba ngokubangela indlela yokuvimbela i-antigen-stimulated response; I-4) isizukulwana se-radicals yamahhala esebenzayo kakhulu esebenzisana nezakhiwo ezahlukeneyo ze-intracellular 5. Ukuthintela ngokuthe ngqo umsebenzi weeseli ze-epidermal Langerhans, ezibangela i-photoimmunosuppression kunye nokunciphisa umsebenzi wokuzivikela wesikhumba. Ukongeza, i-non-enzymatic glycosylation, ukuphazamiseka kwe-metabolic, kunye nokuguga kwe-matrix metalloproteinase kuya kuchaphazela ukuguga kwesikhumba.
Izicatshulwa zezityalo njenge- elastase inhibitors zendalo ziye zaba sisihloko sophando olushushu kwiminyaka yamuva nje, njenge-Scutellaria baikalensis, i-Burnet, imbewu ye-Morinda citrifolia, i-Moringa, i-Shuihe, i-Forsythia, i-Salvia, i-Angelica kunye nokunye. Iziphumo zophononongo zibonisa ukuba: I-Salvia miltiorrhiza extract (ESM) inokukhuthaza ukubonakaliswa kwe-filaggrin kwi-keratinocytes eqhelekileyo yabantu kunye ne-AmoRe Skin, leyo yona inokuphucula umsebenzi wokuhlukana kwe-epidermal kunye ne-hydration, kwaye idlale indima ekuchaseni ukuguga kunye nokufumisa. ; kwizityalo ezidliwayo Khipha i-anti-free radical DPPH esebenzayo, kwaye uyifake kwiimveliso ezifanelekileyo zokuthambisa, ngeziphumo ezilungileyo; Isicatshulwa se-Polygonum cuspidatum sinempembelelo ethile yokuthintela kwi-elastase, ngaloo ndlela i-anti-aging kunye ne-anti-wrinkle.
Fukungakhathali
Umahluko wombala wolusu womzimba womntu uhlala uxhomekeke kumxholo kunye nokuhanjiswa kwe-epidermal melanin, ukujikeleza kwegazi kwidermis, kunye nobukhulu be-stratum corneum. Ubumnyama bolusu okanye ukwakheka kwamabala amnyama kuchaphazeleka ikakhulu kukuqokelelana kwe-melanin enkulu, i-oxidation yesikhumba, i-keratinocyte deposition, i-microcirculation yolusu engalunganga, kunye nokuqokelelana kwee-toxins emzimbeni.
Kule mihla, isiphumo sokususwa kwe-freckle sifezekiswa ikakhulu ngokuchaphazela ukubunjwa kunye nokwanda kwe-melanin. Enye i-tyrosinase inhibitor. Ekuguquleni ukusuka kwi-tyrosine ukuya kwi-dopa kunye ne-dopa kwi-dopaquinone, zombini i-catalyzed yi-tyrosinase, elawula ngokuthe ngqo ukuqaliswa kunye nesantya se-melanin synthesis, kwaye inqume ukuba amanyathelo alandelayo angaqhubeka.
Xa izinto ezahlukeneyo zisebenza kwi-tyrosinase ukwandisa umsebenzi wayo, i-melanin synthesis iyanda, kwaye xa umsebenzi we-tyrosinase uvaliwe, i-melanin synthesis iyancipha. Uphononongo lubonise ukuba i-arbutin inokuthintela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase kuluhlu loxinaniso ngaphandle kwe-melanocyte toxicity, ivimbele ukuhlanganiswa kwe-dopa, kwaye ngaloo ndlela inqanda ukuveliswa kwe-melanin. Abaphandi bafunde izinto zekhemikhali kwi-rhizomes yengwe emnyama kunye neziphumo zabo ezimhlophe, ngelixa bevavanya ukucaphuka kwesikhumba.
Iziphumo zophando zibonisa ukuba: phakathi kwe-17 iikhompawundi ezizimeleyo (HLH-1～17), i-HLH-3 inokuthintela ukubunjwa kwe-melanin, ukwenzela ukuba kuphunyezwe umphumo wobumhlophe, kwaye isicatshulwa sinokucaphuka okuphantsi kakhulu kwesikhumba. URen Hongrong et al. baye babonakalisa ngovavanyo ukuba i-perfume lotus alcohol extract inefuthe elithintelayo ekubunjweni kwe-melanin. Njengohlobo olutsha lwe-agent ephuma kwisityalo esimhlophe, sinokuxutywa kwikhilimu efanelekileyo kwaye ingenziwa ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba, ukuchasana nokuguga kunye nokususwa kwe-freckle. Izithambiso ezisebenzayo.
Kukho kwakhona i-agent ye-melanocyte cytotoxic, efana ne-endothelin antagonists efumaneka kwiincindi zezityalo, ezinokukhuphisana ngokunqanda ukubophelela kwe-endothelin kwi-membrane ye-melanocyte receptors, inqanda ukwahlula kunye nokwanda kwe-melanocytes, ukwenzela ukuba inhibithe i-ultraviolet radiation idala injongo ye-melanin. imveliso. Ngovavanyo lweeseli, uFrédéric Bonté et al. wabonisa ukuba isicatshulwa esitsha seBrassocattleya orchid sinokuthintela ngokufanelekileyo ukwanda kweemelanocytes. Ukuyongeza kwi-cosmetic formulations efanelekileyo kunemiphumo ebonakalayo ekukhanyeni kwesikhumba kunye nokukhanya. UZhang Mu et al. ikhutshwe kwaye yafunda i-Chinese herbal extracts ezifana ne-Scutellaria baicalensis, i-Polygonum cuspidatum kunye ne-Burnet, kwaye iziphumo zibonise ukuba izicatshulwa zabo zinokunqanda ukwanda kweeseli ukuya kumaqondo ahlukeneyo, zithintela kakhulu umsebenzi we-intracellular tyrosinase, kunye nokunciphisa kakhulu umxholo we-intracellular melanin, ukuze ufezekiseke. isiphumo sokwenziwa mhlophe kwamabala.
ukukhuselwa kwelanga
Ngokuqhelekileyo, i-sunscreens esetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo kwi-cosmetics ye-sunscreen ihlukaniswe ngamacandelo amabini: enye i-Absorbent ye-UV, eyi-organic compounds, njenge-ketones; enye i-agent ekhuselayo ye-UV, oko kukuthi, i-sunscreens ebonakalayo, njenge-TiO2, i-ZnO. Kodwa ezi ntlobo zimbini ze-sunscreens zinokubangela ukucaphuka kwesikhumba, ukungahambi kakuhle kwesikhumba, kunye ne-skin pores. Nangona kunjalo, izityalo ezininzi zendalo zinefuthe elihle lokufunxa kwimitha ye-ultraviolet, kwaye ngokungathanga ngqo zomeleza ukusebenza kwe-sunscreen yeemveliso ngokunciphisa umonakalo wemitha obangelwa yimisebe ye-ultraviolet eluswini.
Ukongezelela, izithako ze-sunscreen kwi-extracts zezityalo zineenzuzo zokucatshukiswa kancinci kwesikhumba, ukuzinza kwe-photochemical, ukhuseleko kunye nokuthembeka xa kuthelekiswa neekhemikhali zendabuko kunye ne-sunscreens ebonakalayo. UZheng Hongyan et al. ukhethe izicatshulwa ezintathu zezityalo zendalo, i-cortex, i-resveratrol kunye ne-arbutin, kwaye yafunda ukhuseleko kunye ne-UVB kunye nemiphumo yokukhusela ye-UVA yezithambiso zabo ezidibeneyo ze-sunscreen ngokusebenzisa izilingo zabantu. Iziphumo zophando zibonisa ukuba: ezinye izicatshulwa zezityalo zendalo zibonisa umphumo wokukhusela we-UV. Isalathiso kunye nabanye basebenzisa i-tartary buckwheat flavonoids njengezinto ezibonakalayo zokufunda iimpawu zelanga ze-flavonoids. Uphononongo lufumene ukuba ukusetyenziswa kwe-flavonoids kwi-emulsions yangempela kunye nokudibanisa kunye ne-sunscreens yenyama kunye neekhemikhali zibonelela ngesiseko sethiyori sokusetyenziswa kwezityalo ze-sunscreens kwii-cosmetics kwixesha elizayo.
Qhagamshelana nathi xa ufuna ukubuza:
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I-imeyile:
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Ixesha lokuposa: Jul-12-2022